“We live in a house in the heart of our vineyards, and for us the transition to organic viticulture was a natural consequence of our hale, healthy lifestyle”.
This is how Antonio Stelzer and Roberta Giuriali, husband and wife, explain their lifestyle choice, natural and spontaneous, which led to the 1990 birth of the Maso Martis farm, in Martignano, at the foot of Mount Calisio, east of Trento (in the region of Trentino-Alto Adige, North-East Italy).
It’s here, in this beautiful location, surrounded by greenery, 450 meters above sea level, that Antonio and Roberta are dedicated to viticulture, with great determination and a fixed goal: to produce excellent sparkling wine Trento DOC Classic Method. While this might have looked like an unsurmountable challenge twenty-seven years ago, today a solid tradition has been established under a highly evocative name: “mountain sparkling”. The Trento DOC Classic Method brand can count on fifty production cellars of the highest level, and Maso Martis is one of the jewels in its crown.
The 12 hectares of vineyards lie on top of limestone soils, rich in texture and Trentine red rock. Their production is limited to 60,000 bottles per year. The produce is harvested strictly by hand, and to this day is treated like a country fair. Maso Martis is certified organic since 2013. Each bottle of sparkling wine reflects the year of production.
I was lucky enough to sample one of the best sparkling selections ever: Madame Martis year 2006. It’s a Trentodoc Reserve that comes from a magical blend and a little unusual for the type: 70% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 5% Pinot Meunier.
In the glass are found, clear and intact, the elegance of Pinot Noir, the fragrance of Chardonnay and the softness of Pinot Meunier. “Madame Martis” is in fact a successful synthesis of precious elements that have always characterized the harmonic and firm style of Maso Martis wines.
It might well be the only company that cultivates the Trentino Pinot Meunier (one of the three classic Champagne varietals), which adds class and finesse to the Trento DOC.
When we realize that it boasts nine years of aging on the lees, we understand we’re talking about great wine. In fact … it slowly unveils sensations that open on balsamic notes, cocoa, yogurt, hot and steaming croissants, ripe pear and toasted pine nuts. Everything flows on a basic feeling that brings to mind the rock and the ground. Evolved and savory, the taste is quite a “train” of freshness and harmony: certainly an “original” sparkling, born and created with a distinctly feminine view, but with a decisive male contribution. Lovely! That is, if you can find it: only 1000 bottles have ever produced. It matches well with venison ragout pasta and with Italian bacon.
Two peculiarities: all bottles are numbered and coated with a very elegant and original blue stocking, a very apt choice of packaging by the skilled and forward-looking Roberta Giuriali Stelzer. The wine, like all other great Maso Martis, is the result of great teamwork, which sees Andrea Cristelloni in the frontlines of the vineyard, and oenologist Matteo Ferrari in the winery. My most sincere congratulations and heartfelt cheers!
Retail price: € 80; $ 85; My rating: 94/100
This is a organic wine.
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